This is an excerpt of Julia's article:
"ALONG with laboratory analysis, testing olive oil still involves human taste. To learn how the experts do it, the Dining section asked Martina Rossi Kenworthy, an importer, and her colleague Stefano Noceti, a certified master taster in Italy, to guide a blind tasting of extra virgin oils, including some from their warehouse, supermarket brands and California products. Even blind, they were able to pick out the most expensive oils (Pianogrillo from Sicily, $34.75, and Vicopisano from Tuscany, $43; all prices are for half-liter bottles). Those had an undeniable "liveliness" - a tingly acidity, balancing out the richness of oil - that made them complex and delicious... All those oils had some of the throat-burning quality that reveals the presence of polyphenols, antioxidants that make olive oil healthful... Mr. Noceti said that some oils produced for the American market are purposefully made smooth: we are perceived as timid when it comes to olive oil..."
Do not worry, Gustiamo's producers are so small they wouldn't even dream of a different production for the "international and/or American" market. Their EV Olive Oil is always the same and the best anywhere in the world.