GUSTI Blog

Pomodorini - Another Miracle!

From Sabatino Abagnale, expert and passionate producer of our Miracle di San Gennaro Tomatoes comes our latest tomato find: Pomodorini di Gragnano. Grown in small numbers on the Mount Lattari Park, in the Vesuvius area, the Gragnano ecotype is a small light bulb shaped tomato, sort of a mini San Marzano. The scant water, abundant sun and arid temperatures of this area of the South of Italy lend this prized tomato very low acidity, exceptional sweetness and a rich pulp. Flash cook Pomodorini di Gragnano - 3 minutes will do - to release their fruity, mineral taste

A Message from Master Pastry Chef, Luigi Biasetto

Our friendly master baker/supplier writes:

It's a great honor for me to share with our American cousins a product made with Europe's highest quality raw materials, more than 25 years of experience, the passion which characterizes us, but also a little Love! We wish all who won't have the opportunity to taste our Panettone and Pandoro a Happy Holidays. For the lucky others who will taste our Panettone and Pandoro, we are sure they will have Very Happy Holidays!

Luigi Biasetto, Padova.

Beware, Fake San Marzano Producers!!!

President of Consorzio San Marzano keeps us updated on the fascinating world of San Marzano Tomatoes! He is glad the World is paying attention! The Italian Police, the Carabinieri and Customs Inspectors are working harder to protect the San Marzano good name. Left, a recent article in an Italian newspaper (read the article, here): 34 tons of "presumed" fake tomatoes, destination USA, were sequestered at the port of Naples. Why? The tins had labels that looked perfectly OK with DOP rules, with all the appropriate description, symbols and DOP numbers assigned by the consortium to each tin. The Police is accusing the producer of using the DOP numbers more than once, ie, of cloning its DOP number and multiplying the DOP San Marzano production.

This means that, even with a perfectly looking DOP San Marzano tin, you may end up buying a Fake San Marzano. Pretty scary, isn't it? While there's no clear answer, I'd pay attention, asking your merchant whether they know the producer, personally. Check the price, perhaps it is too cheap to be a real DOP San Marzano tomato? The good news is, the Carabinieri are at work to show you that THE SAN MARZANO name counts and to protect us consumers from fake tomatoes. We know our producers, and we kow what we sell is real!

New Olive Oils in the Warehouse!

The new olive oils are coming in. They are arriving in waves, to accentuate the fact that they are ready at different times, depending on where the olive trees are located. Clearly, the first olive oils to cross the finish line are the ones from the South. We have just received Pianogrillo and Il Tratturello, both from 2011-2012 harvest, meaning that the olives were on the tree literally a month ago!

Pianogrillo, of NYTimes fame! Il Tratturello, of Andrew Cuomo fame, also the recipient (Il Tratturello) of 3 leaves by Gambero Rosso's new olive oil guide, the only 3 leaves in the Molise region!

Please don't call them "Novello". Francesco, who is a kinder person, would make a face. Lorenzo, who is much tougher, will never talk to you, again! The term Novello is for tourists. These are simply the New Olive Oils. They will stay with us for the next 12 months. Novello Olive oils do not exist.

Next olive oil to hit our shores will be Cru di Cures, made by Laura Fagiolo in Sabina (Lazio region) with leccino, frantoio, carboncella and local raja olives. If everything goes well, Cru di Cures should be in our warehouse early January 2012. What a way to start the new year. We can't wait!

Pamela Sheldon Johns' New Book, Cucina Povera

"Cucina Povera", or Peasant Cooking, is out.

Is this perfect timing or what? This is the time when we are all feeling poorer, we are revisiting our finances and our food shopping priorities.

Pamela Sheldon Johns is the author of several great books about Italian food and food artisans, including the lovely book "Balsamico!".

In "Cucina Povera", she teaches you how to cook simply with few but healthy ingredients and how to use all your food leftovers.

There are many Tuscan recipes in the book (farro and beans and olive oil, of course), but also lovely stories of villages and people.

I loved the story of Pitigliano, in the South of Tuscany, a hill town where religious tolerance allowed a Jewish Community to grow and prosper. Not any more, unfortunately, but Pamela's story prompted me to put Pitigliano on my agenda for when I am next in Italy.

The book has nice, vintage (looking?) photographs.

Pamela is in America, these days, to present her new book. We met her in Sara Jenkins' restaurant, Porsena. We learned how to make pici and asked her about the book, in which Gustiamo is mentioned as a source of artisanal Italian food in America. (Click on arrow below to watch the interview.) Good luck, Pamela. 

A Miracle - San Marzano Tomatoes Beyond DOP

Il Miracolo di San Gennaro is a tomato grown by Sabatino Abagnale in Agro Sarnese-Nocerino (the proper DOP Area). It is DNA tested 100% San Marzano, and a wonderful product.

Sabatino's production of Il Miracolo is very limited, a few thousand tins and jars per year! These Miracolo have reached a cult status and despite its price (very expensive... don't even start!), they go very fast. Our yearly allotment which we receive in November is typically sold out by early in the new year. Sabatino, can you send us more?

That being said, while Sabatino is a passionate and honest grower of tomatoes, his tomatoes do not perfectly follow the DOP rules and he cannot call them San Marzano. AND he DOES NOT call them San Marzano. As you see on the left, they are called just "Pomodori". Why? In a second. First, let me reinforce the concept that a name is important and although his tomatoes are San Marzano, he cannot and does not make any reference to San Marzano in the label. Does this send a signal to the industrial producer  of tomatoes that are labeled San Marzano but are FAKE?

Why Sabatino's tomatoes are not San Marzano? Because Italians have big egos and can't agree on anything! Sabatino cannot label his tomatoes San Marzano because he does not fully follow the rules dictated by the Consorzio San Marzano. Although Sabatino and the President of Consortium San Marzano only have praises for each other (true, I talk to them regularly), they can't seem to agree on several things: the type of seeds used (Cirio 3 for DOP, Smec 20 for Sabatino); Sabatino's tomatoes are not peeled (DOP must be peeled)... and who knows how many other little differences. This is one more demonstration that Italians can't work together; even good people (and we are talking about the BEST people in this industry) can't reach an agreement.

Confusing? You bet! The point is Sabatino makes his non San Marzano/beyond San Marzano tomatoes his way and doesn't try to take advantage of the San Marzano name. And they are so few, it's not even an issue. Trust us, they are a Miracle! Buy 'em before we run out!

What's in A Name? Occupy San Marzano!

The protesters of Zuccotti Park fame filed a petition with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office to become the lawful owner of the brand "Occupy Wall Street".

If I think of them I envision youth, clean faces, fight for a better future, ingenuity, creativity. They invented Occupy Wall Street, they need to keep the authentic message going and, why not?, make money from its merchandising. EVEN the kids of Occupy Wall Street understand this simple concept: a NAME is very important.

 Occupy San Marzano! There is only one tomato that can be called San Marzano and the Consorzio di Tutela del Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino is San Marzano's Patent and Trademark Office in Europe. This (click here) is how you see that the tin you have at home or on the shelves of your grocery store or supermarket contains REAL San Marzano Tomatoes. It's the law of the Consorzio. Would you disagree with their interest in protecting their name? Even a kid would understand it is important. 

Gustiamo, Molto Batali's Favorite Online Source!!!

As the expression goes, Mario Batali put his foot in his mouth as his comment about bankers/Hitler/Stalin traveled the world. Of course, he took it back. Bravo. To me, the incident is over.

However, when it comes to food, for us Mario is the King and his opinion is very important. For example, in his new book, "Molto Batali",  the title is important; after Molto Mario, Mario here, Mario there, this new book is signed with Mario's last name. It makes it more official, like his Opera Omnia. Everything he knows, the benefit of all those years of hard work, goes into this book, including his selection of Italian Food Sources. In the list, Mario writes: "MY FAVORITE (capital letters are mine) online source for all great things Italian." "Molto Batali, simple family meals from my home to yours" is divided into the twelve months of the calendar year and offers recipes for meals meant for sharing and celebrating with family and friends. Bravo Mario! And Grazie Mille!

Jeremy McMillan, Fantastic Chef @ Bedford Post Inn

What a fantastic dinner! Left, Gustiamo (Nicolette, Stefano, Martina) with chef Jeremy McMillan at Bedford Post Inn, in Bedford, NY, north of the city. The place was jumping last Tuesday, a notoriusly slow night for restaurants. Bedford Post Inn is also an 8 room Relais & Chateaux AND it is owned by Richard Gere (need link?), who often dines there. No, Richard was not in sight, but we really didn't need any distractions from our meal! Incredible!!! Jeremy uses only fresh and the best ingredients (many from Gustiamo, provider of Italy's Best Foods) and he is a young, very talented and passionate chef. When you go, try the tasting menu, so impressive I took it home - the paper version - to remember all the wonderful dishes we ate (some pictures, here). I need to mention the impeccable service (Oscar Henquet is the attentive manager) and the wines! Meng Chiang's selection of wines perfectly matched the various dishes on the menu. The effect of the wine is clearly shown in this video, here. My voice altered by the alcohol. And no, I was not the driver on our way back home!!! Bravi tutti!

Identita' Golose, The SCOOP! Esposito Chooses Danicoop!

Gustiamo went to a wonderful and fun event, Identita' Golose, yesterday, organized by the infatigable Paolo Marchi from Milano. It was a STELLAR group of 6 Italian and 6 American chefs who share ideas, cook together, translate for each other and show us how great dishes are created by great minds, tradition, ingredients and innovation.

We attended day 2: Michael White said the importance of ingredients and technique is 75-25. Gennaro Esposito from Vico Equense taught us why we should prefer an artisanal pasta vs an industrial one that looks and tastes like plastic and how to cook a pasta that is al dente, but not raw. Carlo Cracco insisted about the emotions he wants you to have when you taste his creations. Wylie Drufesne was a little to complicated for me. It was a very well organized day, everybody enjoyed the show tremendously, including the Eataly family who were all in attendance. Great job, everybody! We loved it!

In particular, we loved Gennarino Esposito (left): he cooked his legendary "Torre del Saracino" "spaghetti al pomodoro". Fantastic!

Well, I dared to ask him - not without trepidation - which tomatoes he used. He said his own grown tomatoes had not arrived in time, he searched the market and tried all the tomatoes he could find. What did he choose and use? DANICOOP San Marzano Tomatoes!!!

I rest my case! This really made my day!